Nach einer ganzen Weile komme ich nun
einmal wieder zum Schreiben, da die Internetverbindung in Patagonien
leider oft sehr schlecht war.
Meine Route von Villa O Higgins führte
über die abenteuerlich Grenze nach El Chalten, von dort nach El
Calafate, Torres de Paine, Puerto Natales nach Punta Arenas und mit
der Fähre nach Porvenir. Von dort über die Grenze nach San
Sebastian, Rio Grande und schließlich bis nach Ushuaia.
Bei der Fährfahrt von Villa O Higgins
waren auf dem Schiff unglaubliche 15 Radfahrer und weitere 30
Rucksackreisende. Unter ihnen befanden sich unter anderem auch 2
Franzosen und ein Deutscher, die mich auf eine Wanderung durch die
Wildnis zu einem Gletscher einluden. Als erstes mussten wir uns dafür
bei der Polizei als Expedition registrieren. Das war schon aufregend.
Bei strömenden Regen ging es dann zunächst einen schlammigen Pfad
entlang, der rasch nur noch eine Spur war und sich schließlich ganz
verlor. So mussten wir uns also durch das Dickicht entlang von
Tierspuren bewegen. Als Orientierung diente dabei ein großer See, an
dem wir immer entlang mussten. Belohnt wurden wir dann nach 3 Tagen
mit einem halben Tag ganz alleine am großartigen Gletscher. Noch am
Abend mussten wir leider den Rückweg antreten wegen dem starken
Wind, der ein zelten unmöglich machte.
Weihnachten verbrachten wir dann auf
einer weiteren Wanderung, die jedoch kurz vor einem Pass wegen
starkem Schneefall endete. So waren wir für 2 Tage eingeschneit und
beschlossen dann wieder abzusteigen. Es war trotzdem ein sehr
gemütliches Weihnachten.
Silvester feierten wir an einem See mit
Blick auf ein Bergmassiv und mit einem Glas Champagner um
Mitternacht. Sehr stilvoll. Am nächsten Tag ging es wieder in die
Berge zum Wandern. Doch leider war der Wind so stark, dass wir kaum
voran kamen.
Am Tage darauf wanderte ich im Parque
Nacional Torres de Paine. Angeblich eine der spektakulärsten
Regionen zum Wandern. Doch leider wissen es zu viele, so dass es
statt eine Wanderung durch stille Berge eher an eine Wanderung im
Stadtpark erinnerte. Alle 50m grüßte ein Wanderer.
Auf Feuerland lernte ich den wirklichen
Wind kennen. Da meist alles flach und baumlos ist wird der Wind durch
nichts gebremst. Bei günstiger Windrichtung kann man mit
Leichtigkeit mit 35 KmH eine Schotterstraße entlang rollen, bei
Gegenwind stirbt man hingegen bei 5 KmH und ist froh, einen
windgeschützten Ort zu finden. Dieses kann schwer zu finden sein und
kann ein einzelner Baum, eine verfallene Hütte oder bestenfalls eine
Bushaltestelle sein. Diese sind sehr massiv gebaut und oft eher eine
Schutzhütte als eine einfache Haltestelle.
Hier in Ushuaia fuhr ich heute bis ganz
ans Ende der Straßen nach Süden bis zu einem Schild mit der
Aufschrift Alaska 17 848 Km. Dort ganz am Ende der Straßen war ich
im größten Touristentrubel seit langem, da am selben Tage ein
großes Kreuzfahrtschiff anlegte, welche alle Passagiere zur selben
Stelle transportierte. Die Touristen stiegen aus den Bussen aus,
machten ein Foto und fuhren wieder von dannen.
Im Hochsommer erlebte ich heute einen
Tag mit Schneefall bei 2 Grad. Gestern war es mit 10 Grad, wenig Wind
und Sonnenschein ein sehr schöner Tag. Man muss hier halt bescheiden
sein. Von Wind redet man hier erst bei Windgeschwindigkeiten über 60
KmH.
Ab morgen geht es nun wieder nach
Norden ins Warme.
English:
After
a while I have the first good internet connection in Patagonia which
was often very bad.
My tour from Villa O Higgins led me over the adventurous border to El Chalten, and from there to El Calafate, Torres de Paine, Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas and by ferry to Porvenir. From there across Tierra de Fuego to the border at San Sebastian, than Rio Grande and finally to Ushuaia.
During the ferry ride from Villa O Higgins there were incredibly 15 cyclists and 30 other backpackers on the boat. Among them were 2 Frenchmen and a German, who invited me on to a hike through the wilderness to a glacier. To do this we had to register as an expedition at the police station. That was exciting. In the pouring rain we started along a muddy path, which became a trace and finally got completely lost. So we had to make our way through the thicket along animal tracks. Orientation gave us a large lake along which we had to go. The reward was a stunning view to the glacier after 3 long days of hiking. During the late evening we had to start going back because of the strong wind.
Christmas we spent on another hike, but shortly before a pass we were stuck in heavy snowfall. We were snowed in for 2 days and then decided to descend again. It was still a very cozy Christmas.
New Year, we celebrated at a lake overlooking a mountain range and drunk champagne at midnight. Very cool. The next day we went back to the mountains for hiking. Unfortunately, the wind was so strong that we got very little progress.
The next day I wandered in Parque Nacional Torres de Paine which is said to be one of the most spectacular regions for hiking. But unfortunately this is known by too many hikers, so that it turn out to be more like a walk in the city park instead of a hike in the silent of a mountain.
In Tierra del Fuego, I got to know the real wind. Because it is mostly flat and treeless the wind is slowed down by nothing. With a favorable wind direction you can easily roll along with 35 KmH on a gravel road, but you die with a headwind, when 5 KmH is a big efferot and you will be happy to find a sheltered place. These are hard to find. It may be a single tree, a ruined hut, or at best a bus stop. These are built very solid and more of a refuge than a simple stop.
Here Ushuaia I went today to the very end of the road going southwards where there is a sign indicating for Alaska in 17,848 km. But even there at the very end of the road I was in the biggest tourist crowd I have seen for a while, because a cruise ship arrived at the same day and all the passengers were going to the same place. They just stepped out of the bus took a picture and left again.
In midsummer I experienced today a day with snowfall at 2 degrees. Yesterday there was little wind and sunshine at 10 degree was said to be a very nice day. You have to be mdest here. From wind you talk here only at wind speeds above 60 KmH.
From tomorrow I will go north again into the warmth.
My tour from Villa O Higgins led me over the adventurous border to El Chalten, and from there to El Calafate, Torres de Paine, Puerto Natales to Punta Arenas and by ferry to Porvenir. From there across Tierra de Fuego to the border at San Sebastian, than Rio Grande and finally to Ushuaia.
During the ferry ride from Villa O Higgins there were incredibly 15 cyclists and 30 other backpackers on the boat. Among them were 2 Frenchmen and a German, who invited me on to a hike through the wilderness to a glacier. To do this we had to register as an expedition at the police station. That was exciting. In the pouring rain we started along a muddy path, which became a trace and finally got completely lost. So we had to make our way through the thicket along animal tracks. Orientation gave us a large lake along which we had to go. The reward was a stunning view to the glacier after 3 long days of hiking. During the late evening we had to start going back because of the strong wind.
Christmas we spent on another hike, but shortly before a pass we were stuck in heavy snowfall. We were snowed in for 2 days and then decided to descend again. It was still a very cozy Christmas.
New Year, we celebrated at a lake overlooking a mountain range and drunk champagne at midnight. Very cool. The next day we went back to the mountains for hiking. Unfortunately, the wind was so strong that we got very little progress.
The next day I wandered in Parque Nacional Torres de Paine which is said to be one of the most spectacular regions for hiking. But unfortunately this is known by too many hikers, so that it turn out to be more like a walk in the city park instead of a hike in the silent of a mountain.
In Tierra del Fuego, I got to know the real wind. Because it is mostly flat and treeless the wind is slowed down by nothing. With a favorable wind direction you can easily roll along with 35 KmH on a gravel road, but you die with a headwind, when 5 KmH is a big efferot and you will be happy to find a sheltered place. These are hard to find. It may be a single tree, a ruined hut, or at best a bus stop. These are built very solid and more of a refuge than a simple stop.
Here Ushuaia I went today to the very end of the road going southwards where there is a sign indicating for Alaska in 17,848 km. But even there at the very end of the road I was in the biggest tourist crowd I have seen for a while, because a cruise ship arrived at the same day and all the passengers were going to the same place. They just stepped out of the bus took a picture and left again.
In midsummer I experienced today a day with snowfall at 2 degrees. Yesterday there was little wind and sunshine at 10 degree was said to be a very nice day. You have to be mdest here. From wind you talk here only at wind speeds above 60 KmH.
From tomorrow I will go north again into the warmth.
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| Glacier Villa o Higgins |
 | |
| Newyear sunrise |
 | |
| Worlds end |
 | |
| Pampa |
 |
| Königspinguine, King Penguine |
 |
| Sicht auf den Mount Fizz Roy, View to the mountain Fizz Roy |
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| 20.000 Km by bike |
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| Mountain in the early morning |
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| Wind at Tierra de Fuego |
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| White christmas |
